Newfoundland
Mountains
Box Elder County, Utah Page One of Two
As the mining boom
of the American West took hold, people flocked, with dollar signs in their
eyes, to even the most remote, unforgiving places in the West. The Newfoundland
Mountains were no exception. Despite the remote location, inhospitable
topography, dry, salt-laden wind, and scant wildlife, people came. They
lived here under the harshest of conditions. The list of reasons not to
settle here could go on for pages. But the list of reasons to visit the
Newfoundland Mountain Range today is equally compelling.
We met up with Mike Tomany, our guide for the day, at Locomotive
Springs on the north shore of the Great Salt Lake. He pulled into
camp at 9:00 AM. After rolling up the tent and loading our wares into
the truck, we followed him and Jeff, his traveling companion, through
some 80 miles of spectacular desert scenery, through the ghost town of
Kelton and south through the Hogup Mountains. We stopped at a few sites
along the way to learn interesting historical and geographical factoids.
We finally hit the
rails at Hogup and drove west in a straight line headed for the Newfoundland
Mountains.
Our first stop in
the range was Mike's favorite camping spot, a strange collection of granite
outcroppings at the northern terminus of the range. Taken by the spectacular
formations, the four of us were hundreds of feet above our vehicles within
minutes of our arrival. After returning from our climb, Ryan and I decided
to claim the place as our camp for the next two nights.
The following few
photos show only partially how surreal this landscape is.
A closeup of the rock reveals odd "pock-marks".
As we climed, the "pores" began to look more and more like caves.
And before long, we were crawling and walking through hollowed out boulders.
The Newfoundland Range
is an oddity indeed. Given better vehicle access, this might be a well-traveled
place for climbers and outdoor-enthusiasts of all breeds. As it is, access
is limited to an easily-missed entry point from the railroad's right of
way at the north end of the range, preceded by a long trip over miles
of marginal dirt roads. On previous outings in this part of Utah we have
learned the value of being prepared with not one, but two spare tires.
We lucked out this time around with no tire incidents, but suggest over-preparing
to anyone venturing out.
A hollowed out boulder not far from our camp spot had obviously looked
ideal to others over the years. Complete wth a table, smooth, flat surfaces
on which to lay bedding, and a fire pit with a natural chimney at the
back of the cave, it's only drawback was a bit of a hike for us to carry
our equipment and provisions that had already been unloaded from the truck
down below.
Mike Tomany has actively explored the Newfoundland Mountains for over
two decades.
After "refueling"
and rehydrating, we returned to the vehicles for the next adventure--Miner's
Basin.
Around the north tip of the range and south a few miles down the west
side was a fairly unassuming road leading off into the hills. It wasn't
long, however, before we were in 4wd taking it slow--not for steepness
or lack of traction as much as for knowing how unpleasant it would be
to change a tire here. Negotiating the spear-like rocks in the road made
us glad to have Mike leading the way. We were soon high above the basin
at a remote silver mining camp we found as perplexing as the view was
spectacular.
What could be worth
so much that you would come all the way out here, build a house of stone,
haul in a 12 ton steam engine and dig dozens of mines in the rocky cliffs
of the Newfoundlands? Not to mention that they had none of the modern
machinery to mine, or get the equipment there and the silver out... Strange
indeed, but it makes for a fascinating place to visit.
Mike and Ryan spotted
a rat in the mine.
After spending a couple
good hours at Miner's Basin, Ryan and Mike having a look about in some
mines, we were pooped. Mike had already been high centered twice; we had
hiked more than our winter-fattened bodies were ready to handle in one
day, and were starting to look forward to some cold drinks, dinner, and
bed. Mike guided us back to our camp and departed for Brigham City. Without
Mike, we might not have been adventurous enough to make the trek to Miner's
Basin. We are indebted to him for his hospitality, energy and kindness
in showing us parts of this spectacular range.
Look closely for our
tent (left center).
Writing on the side
of a rock indicating someone might have spent time here in 1895. We can't
verify its authenticity, but it looked convincing.